Between The Tides – Discovering Texas Through Oysters
I didn’t have high hopes for Texas oysters. I expected big, brash Gulf oysters—maybe a little one-note. But The Taste of Texas oyster festival proved me wrong. This young industry, built on grit, ingenuity, and the Texas coastline, is shaping a new identity in the oyster world. The four farms I met—DJ’s Oyster Co., Lone Star Oyster Co., Big Tree Oyster Co., and Blackjack Point Oyster Co.—are laying the foundation for a true Texas oyster culture, each bringing something fresh to the table.
Texas’s Oyster Renaissance
As soon as I landed in Austin, I knew I was in for something different. The air felt like it was buzzing with heat, the kind that makes you crave something cold and briny. Dan Wangler (@theseafooddude), a good friend and a true champion of the Texas oyster movement, had arranged the whole event and invited me to join him. He’s been central to Texas’s growing oyster industry, connecting farmers with events and advocating for sustainable, locally cultivated oysters. We met up at Spokesman Coffeehouse, an unpretentious spot where a crowd was ready to dive into Texas’s new crop of oysters.
The crowd at The Taste of Texas was energetic and eager to get started. There was palpable excitement about these being Texas oysters—a new dawn for a region that’s just beginning to make its mark. With only eight leases approved so far, Texas oyster farming is in its infancy, and there’s a long road ahead. But the energy and commitment of these farmers signal a real future for Texas in the oyster world.
Texas is onto something big. Sure, they joined the game a little late, but they’ve turned that into an advantage, picking up the best practices and sustainable approaches from other regions. Creating the Commercial Oyster Mariculture Advisory Board, with leaders from the Coastal Bend, shows the state’s commitment to making this industry thrive. As more leases are approved and new farms pop up, it’s only a matter of time before Texas oysters make their way to menus across the country, bringing Gulf Coast flavor to the nation.
Each of the four farms had its own setup, each bringing a unique flavor, character, and story to the festival. The energy was contagious, and there was a palpable excitement about discovering these Texas-grown oysters. Dan had orchestrated something special here.
DJ’s Oyster Co.: Resilience and a New Chapter in Palacios
My first shuck was an oyster from DJ’s Oyster Co., where David and Jacob, third-generation shrimpers turned oyster farmers based in Palacios, Texas, DJ’s Oyster Co. represents a story of resilience and adaptation. Both brothers, who once spent their days on shrimp boats, planted the first batch of “Matagorda Pearls” in August 2022 after securing a lease. The transition wasn’t easy—shrimping is a way of life in these parts, passed down through families, and they had to make peace with a shift in direction. But with Matagorda Bay’s pristine waters, they’ve found a way to bring out something remarkable in his oysters.
Matagorda Pearls are firm, with a clean, balanced taste that starts with a briny punch and finishes on a sweet note—a little surprise from a Gulf oyster. And even though their farm faced a setback when Hurricane Beryl tore through in July 2024, DJ’s Oyster Co. has rebounded, proving the farm’s—and the brothers—resilience. Standing there, tasting one of these little gems, I could see why they staked everything on this new venture.
Lone Star Oyster Co.: Crafting an Oyster Legacy
Next up was Lone Star Oyster Co., run by the dynamic duo Blake and Stephanie Branson. The Bransons are serious about creating an authentic Texas oyster legacy, and it shows in everything they do. While their farm is still young, their dedication to the craft is unmistakable. They’ve embraced sustainable farming practices and take pride in the quality of their oysters. Blake and Stephanie are regulars at oyster symposiums and industry events, sharing their insights and learning from other regions to make sure they’re setting up Texas oyster farming for long-term success.
With the ‘Mermaid Tears’ I tasted an oyster that had that unmistakable Texas edge. These oysters are subtly sweet with a briny base and an earthy, almost metallic finish—a straightforward and bold flavor profile, much like the Lone Star spirit. The Bransons are setting the groundwork for something big, and you can tell they’re here for the long haul, determined to make Texas oysters something to be respected.
Big Tree Oyster Co.: A Tribute to the Texas Coast
Big Tree Oyster Co., based out of Rockport, Texas, was easily the standout for me. Founded by husband-and-wife team Amy and Seth, Big Tree is all about honoring the Texas coast. Amy, a conservation biologist, and Seth, a marine hydrographer and boat builder, bring a deep respect for the land and sea to their work. Their farm is located in Copano Bay, near Goose Island State Park, where the historic Big Tree—a live oak over a thousand years old—stands as a testament to the resilience of the Texas coast.
Big Tree’s oysters are nurtured with hands-on techniques that mimic the natural tides. Amy and Seth use floating cages that they tumble and flip regularly, keeping the oysters clean and helping them grow with deep cups and plump meats. When they reach the perfect 2.5 to 3-inch size, each oyster is harvested by hand, making them a true labor of love. The flavor profile of these oysters? Clean and salty with a bright, buttery finish. Tasting one feels like biting into the Texas coast itself.
Blackjack Point Oyster Co.: Craftsmanship Meets Coastal Heritage
Finally, I arrived at Blackjack Point Oyster Co., a newcomer with an impressive presence. Founded by A.J. and Debbie Minns, Blackjack Point began operations in Aransas Bay with their final permit approval in April 2023. Their farm sits on a four-acre lease, where they grow oysters in floating cages, which give the oysters a consistently clean taste. A.J., a second-generation waterman, brings a background in commercial fishing, and he’s channeled that knowledge into oyster farming. For him, this isn’t just about oysters; it’s about a connection to the water that goes back generations.
Blackjack Point oysters are petite, with an intense briny flavor that captures the rugged, coastal character of Texas. They’re the kind of oysters you’d want to introduce to someone who thinks Gulf oysters are all the same (ahem, ME!)—they break the mold with a flavor that’s fresh and fierce. As I shucked through these beauties, it was clear the Minns family was carving out their legacy.
An Unexpected Finish
After the event, Dan and I decided to unwind with a few beers. But true to form, within an hour we were back in the thick of things. We’d heard the Spokesman was hosting a graffiti battle that night, so we figured, “What could be better than an oyster pop-up at a graffiti battle?” A table, some ice, and a fresh batch of oysters later, we were in business.
There we were, at a graffiti battle in Austin, slinging oysters and spreading the gospel of Texas’s finest. The crowd didn’t plan on getting a taste of the coast, but as they sampled these oysters—some sweet, some salty, all a little piece of Texas—the intrigue was obvious. We’d left an impression, with folks curious to know what was next on this Texas oyster journey.
The Journey Continues
This event marked the beginning of something big for The Wandering Shuckers Co. This festival was the spark for an idea—that we could travel the country, meet oyster farmers, and share these stories coast-to-coast. Now, I can’t imagine doing anything else. Turns out, oysters might not have been the plan, but here we are, and there’s no turning back.
Since that first event in Austin, Texas oysters have been making their way beyond the Gulf, and I’ve been lucky enough to help share their story. I went back for another tasting in San Antonio, and then, in NYC, I found myself shucking Texas oysters alongside the one and only Rowan Jacobsen. That night was something special—not just because we had seven Texas farms represented, but because I got to do what I love: shuck open oysters and talk about the people and waters behind them.
And the momentum isn’t slowing down. My good friend Michael-Ann Rowe and I are already planning an Industry Texas Oyster event in NYC—because if there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s that Texas oysters are here to stay.
Stay tuned—there’s a lot more to come.
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